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Carla Labarthe, Bruno Castelle, Vincent Marieu, Thierry Garlan and Stéphane Bujan
Beach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it is usually considered as a time-invariant and profile-average parameter. Here, we apply a state-of-the-art equilibrium mode...
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Arnaud Héquette, Adrien Cartier and François G. Schmitt
Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and...
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Evelien Brand, Anne-Lise Montreuil, Rik Houthuys and Margaret Chen
To relate hydrodynamic forcing and topographic response for a tide-dominated sandy beach, extensive field measurements were carried out in the intertidal zone. Hydrodynamics and beach topography were monitored during a total of 12 weeks at two different ...
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Damien Sous, Bruno Castelle, Arthur Mouragues and Philippe Bonneton
Headland rips, sometimes referred to as boundary rips, are rip currents flowing against natural or artificial obstructions extending seaward from the beach, such as headland or groynes. They can be driven either by the deflection of the longshore current...
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Patrick Bogaert, Anne-Lise Montreuil and Margaret Chen
The ability to accurately predict beach morphodynamics is of primary interest for coastal scientists and managers. With this goal in mind, a stochastic model of a sandy macrotidal barred beach is developed that is based on cross-shore elevation profiles....
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R. Jak McCarroll, Gerd Masselink, Nieves G. Valiente, Tim Scott, Erin V. King and Daniel Conley
Headland bypassing is the transport of sediment around rocky headlands by wave and tidal action, associated with high-energy conditions and embayment circulation (e.g., mega-rips). Bypassing may be a key component in the sediment budget of many coastal c...
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Serge Suanez, Romain Cancouët, France Floc'h, Emmanuel Blaise, Fabrice Ardhuin, Jean-François Filipot, Jean-Marie Cariolet and Christophe Delacourt
Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004?2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with ext...
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Tony Thomas, Nelson Rangel-Buitrago, Michael R. Phillips, Giorgio Anfuso and Allan T. Williams
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