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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and ...
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Cuiping Kuang, Jiadong Fan, Xuejian Han, Hongyi Li, Rufu Qin and Qingping Zou
With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-hydr...
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Maurizio D?Anna, Deborah Idier, Bruno Castelle, Sean Vitousek and Goneri Le Cozannet
Long-term (>decades) coastal recession due to sea-level rise (SLR) has been estimated using the Bruun Rule for nearly six decades. Equilibrium-based shoreline models have been shown to skillfully predict short-term wave-driven shoreline change on time sc...
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Rangley C. Mickey, Patricia S. Dalyander, Robert McCall and Davina L. Passeri
Antecedent topography is an important aspect of coastal morphology when studying and forecasting coastal change hazards. The uncertainty in morphologic response of storm-impact models and their use in short-term hazard forecasting and decadal forecasting...
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Masato Yokobori, Yoshiaki Kuriyama, Takenori Shimozono and Yoshimitsu Tajima
Predicting the morphological changes of the backshore is vital for appropriate beach management because the backshore plays a significant role in the ecosystem and disaster prevention. In this study, a one-dimensional model was developed and applied to t...
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Kyu-Tae Shim, Kyu-Han Kim and Jun-Ho Park
A physical model test was carried out to evaluate a measure of reducing sediment transport in a condition of erosive wave incidence. The erosion trend was analyzed in a beach profile consisting of 0.1 mm sand, and a scenario in which 1 mm and 5 mm materi...
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Nicholas Cohn, Bas M. Hoonhout, Evan B. Goldstein, Sierd De Vries, Laura J. Moore, Orencio Durán Vinent and Peter Ruggiero
Coastal landscape change represents aggregated sediment transport gradients from spatially and temporally variable marine and aeolian forces. Numerous tools exist that independently simulate subaqueous and subaerial coastal profile change in response to ...
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Bastiaan J. A. Huisman, Dirk-Jan R. Walstra, Max Radermacher, Matthieu A. de Schipper and B. Gerben Ruessink
Shoreface nourishments are commonly applied for coastal maintenance, but their behaviour is not well understood. Bathymetric data of 19 shoreface nourishments located at alongshore uniform sections of the Dutch coast were therefore analyzed and used to v...
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Masatoshi Yuhi, Masayuki Matsuyama and Kazuhiro Hayakawa
Sandy beaches play a key role in regional tourism. It is important to understand the principal morphological processes behind preserving attractive beaches. In this study, morphological variation on the Chirihama Coast, Japan, an important local tourism ...
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