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Jiajia Pan and Hung Tao Shen
A two-dimensional wave model coupled with ice dynamics is developed to evaluate ice effects on shallow water wave propagation on a beach and in a channel. The nonlinear Boussinesq equations with ice effects are derived and solved by the hybrid technique ...
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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and ...
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Serdar Beji
A set of Boussinesq-type wave equations with enhanced dispersion characteristics is presented for accurate, efficient, and robust numerical treatment. New arrangement uses three different velocity variables simultaneously in order to keep continuity and ...
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Xinran Ji, Chuanle Xu, Zhiyuan Ren, Sheng Yan, Daoru Wang and Zongbing Yu
Rip currents are fast offshore currents generated during the breaking process of waves propagating nearshore, posing a potential life safety threat to coastal bathers. This study utilizes a Boussinesq phase-resolving model to investigate the formation me...
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Yana Saprykina, Burak Aydogan and Berna Ayat
On the basis of field experiments and modeling, the dependence of the dissipation of the energy of waves breaking by plunging and spilling on the frequency of wave spectra was investigated. It was shown that the modeling of wave breaking should take into...
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Sarat Chandra Mohapatra, Hafizul Islam, Thiago S. Hallak and C. Guedes Soares
A mathematical model of solitary wave interaction with a pontoon-type rigid floating structure over a flat bottom is formulated based on Boussinesq-type equations under weakly nonlinear dispersive waves. Based on the higher-order Boussinesq equations, th...
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Xinyi Yuan, Yan Su and Peng Xie
The frequency characteristics of free surface elevation time histories of shallow-water sloshing in a three-dimensional rectangular tank is presented. The numerical model for sloshing motion uses an accurate velocity potential Boussinesq-type equation. A...
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Kyong Ho Ryu, Weon Mu Jeong, Jung-Eun Oh, Won-Dae Baek and Yeon S. Chang
The effect of a detached breakwater, which was constructed to improve harbor tranquility inside Pohang New Port, was examined through the comparison of wave data measured before and after the construction of the breakwater. The observation data showed th...
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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
In the present work, the impact of climate change on coastal flooding is investigated through a set of interoperable models developed by the authors, following a modular modelling approach and adapting the modelling sequence to two separate objectives wi...
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Bang-Fuh Chen and Yi-Jei Huang
A numerical model was used to simulate the propagation of internal waves (IW) along the surface layer. The results show that strong water exchange during IW propagation results in strong free surface flow and produces small but distinct free surface wave...
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