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Ioannis Kazakis and Theophanis V. Karambas
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source...
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Florent Birrien and Tom Baldock
An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium con...
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Duoc Tan Nguyen, Niels G. Jacobsen and Dano Roelvink
This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is emplo...
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Theo Moura and Tom E. Baldock
Different conceptual models for forced infragravity (long) waves exist in the literature, which suggest different models for the behavior of shoaling forced waves and the possible radiation of free long waves in that process. These are discussed in terms...
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Sonja Eichentopf, Joep van der Zanden, Iván Cáceres and José M. Alsina
The evolution of different initial beach profiles towards the same final beach configuration is investigated based on large-scale experimental data. The same wave condition was performed three times, each time starting from a different initial profile mo...
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Hyun-Doug Yoon, Daniel Cox and Nobuhito Mori
To quantify the effect of wave breaking turbulence on sediment transport in the nearshore, the vertical distribution of time-averaged suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in the surf zone was parameterized in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE)...
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