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Timothy W. Hawkins, Isabelle Gouirand, Theodore Allen and Ali Belmadani
Large wintertime ocean swells in the Caribbean, known as north swells, generate high surf and expose communities, ecosystems, and infrastructure to hazardous conditions. Empirical orthogonal functions and cluster analyses using ERA5 reanalysis swell data...
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Ad J.H.M. Reniers, Remy Naporowski, Marion F. S. Tissier, Matthieu A. de Schipper, Gal Akrish and Dirk P. Rijnsdorp
Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spr...
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Bart-Jan van der Spek, Eelco Bijl, Bas van de Sande, Sanne Poortman, Dirk Heijboer and Bram Bliek
The nature-based concept of the Sandbar Breakwater was born based on the typical natural dynamics of the West African coast (Gulf of Guinea). Learning from the development and coastal impact of the existing port infrastructure in West Africa, the applica...
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Jesbin George, V. Sanil Kumar, R. Gowthaman and Jai Singh
The nearshore wave characteristics and variations in littoral drift (longshore sediment transport; LST) are estimated based on different approaches for four years along the Vengurla coast, with comparable wind-sea and swell energy assessed. The waverider...
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Maria Francesca Bruno, Matteo Gianluca Molfetta, Vincenzo Totaro and Michele Mossa
The present paper deals with a performance assessment of the ERA5 wave dataset in an ocean basin where local wind waves superimpose on swell waves. The evaluation framework relies on observed wave data collected during a coastal experimental campaign car...
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Alvaro Semedo
A climatology of wind sea and swell waves along the Canary eastern boundary current area, from west Iberia to Mauritania, is presented. The study is based on the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) reanalysis ERA-Interim. The wind ...
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Ap Van Dongeren, Martijn De Jong, Cock Van der Lem, Alex Van Deyzen and Joost Den Bieman
This paper reviews the dynamics of infragravity (long-period) waves over reef systems and the consequences of these waves for operations in ports located behind reefs with particular attention to Western Australia. Swells which originate in the Southern ...
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