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Julien Touboul, Veronica Morales-Marquez and Kostas Belibassakis
The wave?current?seabed interaction problem is studied by using a coupled-mode system developed for modeling wave scattering by non-homogeneous, sheared currents in variable bathymetry regions. The model is based on a modal series expansion of wave veloc...
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Serdar Beji
A set of Boussinesq-type wave equations with enhanced dispersion characteristics is presented for accurate, efficient, and robust numerical treatment. New arrangement uses three different velocity variables simultaneously in order to keep continuity and ...
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Guotong Deng, Jiuxing Xing, Jinyu Sheng and Shengli Chen
Analysis of sea-level observations demonstrates that Typhoons Mawar (2017) and Mangkhut (2018) induced seiches in both Dapeng Bay and Daya Bay near Shenzhen of China, with periods varying from about 3.5 to 4.0 h. Typhoon Mawar (2017) also generated seich...
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Arnida Lailatul Latifah, Durra Handri, Ayu Shabrina, Henokh Hariyanto and E. van Groesen
This paper shows simulations of high waves over different bathymetries to collect statistical information, particularly kurtosis and crest exceedance, that quantifies the occurrence of exceptionally extreme waves. This knowledge is especially pertinent f...
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Jeffrey Knowles and Harry Yeh
The transformation of long waves?such as tsunamis and storm surges?evolving over a continental shelf is investigated. We approach this problem numerically using a pseudo-spectral method for a higher-order Euler formulation. Solitary waves and undular bor...
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Diogo Santos, Tiago Abreu, Paulo A. Silva and Paulo Baptista
When waves propagate in coastal areas at depths lower than one half the wavelength, they exhibit a different signature at the sea surface and the observed wavelength pattern enables inferring bathymetries. Commonly, a spectral analysis using the fast Fou...
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Georges Sadaka and Denys Dutykh
A simplified nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq system of the Benjamin?Bona?Mahony (BBM)-type, initially derived by Mitsotakis (2009), is employed here in order to model the generation and propagation of surface water waves over variable bottom. The simplif...
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Weizhi Wang, Arun Kamath, Tobias Martin, Csaba Pákozdi and Hans Bihs
Modern design for marine and coastal activities places increasing focus on numerical simulations. Several numerical wave models have been developed in the past few decades with various techniques and assumptions. Those numerical models have their own adv...
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Kostas Belibassakis, Julien Touboul, Elodie Laffitte and Vincent Rey
Extended mild-slope models (MMSs) are examined for predicting the characteristics of normally incident waves propagating over sinusoidal bottom topography in the presence of opposing shearing currents. It is shown that MMSs are able to provide quite good...
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Floris de Wit, Marion Tissier and Ad Reniers
Field measurements of waves and currents were obtained at ten locations on an ebb-tidal shoal seaward of Ameland Inlet for a six-week period. These measurements were used to investigate the evolution of the near-bed velocity skewness and asymmetry, as th...
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