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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and ...
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Yoon-Jin Ha, Byoung-Jae Park, Yun-Ho Kim and Kang-Su Lee
In this study, experiments were conducted to provide validation data for numerical simulations. Model tests were conducted in a 2D wave flume at the Korea Research Institute of Ships and Ocean Engineering (KRISO). A series of hammering tests for two flat...
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Duoc Tan Nguyen, Niels G. Jacobsen and Dano Roelvink
This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is emplo...
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Shanti Bhushan, Oumnia El Fajri, Graham Hubbard, Bradley Chambers and Christopher Kees
This study evaluates the capability of Navier?Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose,...
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Changfei Li, Fuping Gao and Lijing Yang
Previous studies on wave-induced pore pressure in a porous seabed mainly focused on non-breaking regular waves, e.g., Airy linear waves or Stokes non-linear waves. In this study, breaking-wave induced pore pressure response in a sandy seabed was physical...
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Vasco M. N. C. S. Vieira, Marcos Mateus, Ricardo Canelas and Francisco Leitão
Accurately estimating air?water gas exchanges requires considering other factors besides wind speed. These are particularly useful for coastal ocean applications, where the sea-state varies at fine spatial and temporal resolutions. We upgrade FuGas 2.5 w...
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Vincent Gruwez, Corrado Altomare, Tomohiro Suzuki, Maximilian Streicher, Lorenzo Cappietti, Andreas Kortenhaus and Peter Troch
In this paper, a Reynolds-averaged Navier?Stokes (RANS) equations solver, interFoam of OpenFOAM®, is validated for wave interactions with a dike, including a promenade and vertical wall, on a shallow foreshore. Such a coastal defence system is comprised ...
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Weizhi Wang, Arun Kamath, Tobias Martin, Csaba Pákozdi and Hans Bihs
Modern design for marine and coastal activities places increasing focus on numerical simulations. Several numerical wave models have been developed in the past few decades with various techniques and assumptions. Those numerical models have their own adv...
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