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Achilleas G. Samaras and Theophanis V. Karambas
This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and ...
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Cuiping Kuang, Jiadong Fan, Xuejian Han, Hongyi Li, Rufu Qin and Qingping Zou
With the recent development from grey infrastructures to green infrastructures, artificial reefs become more popular in coastal protection projects. To investigate the responses of beach profile evolution to the presence of an artificial reef, a non-hydr...
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Ioannis Kazakis and Theophanis V. Karambas
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source...
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Xinran Ji, Chuanle Xu, Zhiyuan Ren, Sheng Yan, Daoru Wang and Zongbing Yu
Rip currents are fast offshore currents generated during the breaking process of waves propagating nearshore, posing a potential life safety threat to coastal bathers. This study utilizes a Boussinesq phase-resolving model to investigate the formation me...
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William Lambert, Stefano Brizzolara and Craig Woolsey
Near-surface simulation methods for shallowly submerged underwater vehicles are necessary for the population of a variety of free-surface-affected, coefficient-based maneuvering and seakeeping models. Simulations vary in complexity and computational cost...
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Jacqueline Michel and Philip Bambach
Based on past spills, the conditions under which floating oil mixes with enough sand to form sunken oil mats (SOMs) are identified. SOMs form mostly during spills of heavy crudes or heavy fuel oils, but also highly weathered and viscous crude oils. They ...
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Mohammad Shaiful Islam, Naoki Akita, Tomoaki Nakamura, Yong-Hwan Cho and Norimi Mizutani
In this paper, a hydraulic model experiment was conducted to investigate the mechanism of longshore sediment transport on a sloping beach of 1:7 using a circular wave tank equipped with a spiral wave maker. The experimental results revealed that cross-sh...
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Rob Holman, Hans Rod Moritz and James McMillan
Breaking waves constitute one of the main environmental stressors on coastal structures as well as a leading hazard to navigation in nearshore regions. In this paper, we use camera-based methods to measure wave breaking over two jetty systems in the Paci...
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Miyoung Yun, Jinah Kim and Kideok Do
Estimating wave-breaking indexes such as wave height and water depth is essential to understanding the location and scale of the breaking wave. Therefore, numerous wave-flume laboratory experiments have been conducted to develop empirical wave-breaking f...
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Timma Flanagan, Meagan Wengrove and Bryson Robertson
Future nearshore wave energy converter (WEC) arrays will influence coastal wave and sediment dynamics, yet there are limited numerical methodologies to quantify their possible impacts. A novel coupled WEC-Wave numerical method was developed to quantify t...
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