Redirigiendo al acceso original de articulo en 16 segundos...
ARTÍCULO
TITULO

Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?

Oliver Billson    
Paul Russell and Mark Davidson    

Resumen

Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005?0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, and with different mixes of swell and wind-waves is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset, comprising shoreline video observations from five contrasting sites (one low-sloping sandy beach, two steep gravel beaches, and two compound/mixed sand and gravel beaches), under storm wave conditions (deep water wave height, H0 up to 6.6 m, and peak period, Tp up to 18.2 s), was used to assess: how the importance and dominance of infragravity waves varies at the shoreline? In this previously unstudied combination of wave and morphological conditions, significant infragravity swash heights (Sig) at the shoreline in excess of 0.5 m were consistently observed on all five contrasting beaches. The largest infragravity swash heights were observed on a steep gravel beach, followed by the low-sloping sandy beach, and lowest on the compound/mixed sites. Due to contrasting short wave breaking and dissipation processes, infragravity frequencies were observed to be most dominant over gravity frequencies on the low-sloping sandy beach, occasionally dominant on the gravel beaches, and rarely dominant on the compound/mixed beaches. Existing empirical predictive relationships were shown to parameterize Sig skillfully on the sand and gravel beaches separately. Deep water wave power was found to accurately predict Sig on both the sand and gravel beaches, demonstrating that, under storm wave conditions, the wave heights and periods are the main drivers of infragravity oscillations at the shoreline, with the beach morphology playing a secondary role. The exception to this was the compound/mixed beach sites where shoreline infragravity energy remained low.

 Artículos similares

       
 
Yuting Zhang, Qiyan Ji, Minghong Xie, You Wu and Yilun Tian    
The study used the SCHISM ocean model combined with the WWM III wind wave model to quantify the interaction between wind waves and tides in the coastal zone of the Changjiang River Estuary and its adjacent areas. The wave and storm surge during Typhoon A... ver más

 
Moleni Tu?uholoaki, Antonio Espejo, Moritz Wandres, Awnesh Singh, Herve Damlamian and Zulfikar Begg    
The South Pacific region is characterised by steep shelves and fringing coral reef islands. The lack of wide continental shelves that can dissipate waves makes Pacific Island countries vulnerable to large waves that can enhance extreme total water levels... ver más

 
Yingtao Zhou, Xi Feng, Maoyuan Liu and Weiqun Wang    
Beach width is an important factor for tourists? comfort, and the backshore is a swash zone where sediment moves quickly. Artificial sandy beaches focus on beach width stability and evolution. This paper is based on an artificial beach project in Haikou ... ver más

 
Elizaveta Kruglova and Stanislav Myslenkov    
Wind and wave conditions are limiting factors for economic activity, and it is very important to study the long-term variability of storm activity. The main motivation of this research is to assess the impact of wind variability on the storm activity in ... ver más
Revista: Water

 
Seung-Won Suh and Myeong-Hee Lee    
The vulnerability to coastal disasters resulting from storm surges and wave overtopping (WOT) during typhoon intrusions is significantly escalating due to rising sea levels. In particular, coastal seawalls constructed along the coast through engineered a... ver más